I owe some of my friends the story of the experience of diving in Sharm el-Sheikh and an explanation of why this story comes so late.
Sharm was a disruptive experience for me - everything I ever knew about Egypt came tumbling down. I call my personal experience with mighty Sharm the meeting with the “city of thieves” – all that I directly lived or observed the time I was there comes as a personal proof. From the taxi drivers to the sales people I met in the supermarkets or bazaars, everybody was interested only to put the hand in the pocket. Deep in the pocket, I mean, in any way that seem to involve lying, cheating and/or stealing. And there is nothing s/charming about this. The ugliest thing however was their perception that this is the right thing to do, that somehow their “victims” deserved it. This is how I came to appreciate even more the kindness and openness of those very few friends I have in Egypt, as if they are a special breed in an un-natural world. And they continue to represent true Egypt for me. The rest are just exponents of a sick world, a world without faith, without values and principles. I don’t hate it, I just look at it with eyes wide open and I am just better prepared to face it the next time.
This being said, under waters Sharm looks much nicer than outside. Soft and hard corals, many drop offs, huge napoleons, Belugas, moray eels, barracudas and turtles – this is what I saw. I just dove Tiran and Ras Mohammed. Best dive of the holiday: Canyon, DahabJ


Weather was wonderful, 25-26 C in the water, close to 30 outside :), a special winter gift for me (the next week my sister experienced rain in Hurghada and the storm that hit Egypt produced casualties).
I started with a strange experience with a guide (instructor!!:))) who left me behind and was doing speed competition from 30 m to about 17 m. I didn’t enter the contest, as my diving instructor’s “phantom” was already yelling at me for watching the safety rules (thanks, Hegazy, one more time you were there, even if at distance :)). Learnt to say “no” under water to stupid risky stuff - fortunately this was just for one day. After this I had some good dives with another guide, Sameh.
Turtles made my diving – this is how I started and this is how I ended the diving days, by caressing a turtle. The last day I just extended my hand and the turtle decided to paw shake with me
hard to say what I felt!
Diving in Sharm is organized army style, with a lot of dead time for the divers. Transfers are killer for the moods or at least for my mood. Going in the waters only from the marina is a hassle. People waiting at the diving center to find out on which boat they are distributed for the day is not a sign of comfort; nor it was the experience of being forgotten one morning in front of the hotel.




No sharks (I understand they are easier to see during summer) and no Thistlegorm (the trip was canceled twice because of bad weather).
Overall conclusion: next time I have to find a center that is more into diving and less into snorkeling as a specialty.
If Dahab was too quiet for me, Sharm is too noisy.

Overall, Sharm vs Hurghada, for me the best choice is by far Hurghada. Many say that Hurghada is a second hand destination compared to Sharm, my perspective is however different: from the diving sites, which I find more varied and spectacular, and up to the city life, blending old and new, traditional and modern, touristic and authentic aspects, Hurghada has much more to offer. It’s also my preference for boat diving speaking, and the rejection of being transferred from one place to another which is specific of Sharm. And I am glad to say it’s not only me speaking of it, Dive magazine has kind of the same opinion, here. It’s true that I need from time to time a variation from my “Abu Ramada specialty”, but Hurghada remains first in my top of favorite spots in the Red Sea… and beyond, in the diving world I know till now.
As a taste for my next adventures… Nuweiba certainly has some treasures, which I must uncover one of the next timesJ Not to mention that is awfully close to Petra and JerusalemJ
